The invention relates to new types of interlining, particularly but not exclusively, for stiffening parts of outer garments, based on conventional interlining materials which are subjected to paste pressure, and the method for the manufacture thereof. These interlinings are used primarily to stiffen fronts, collars, sleeves and similar parts of outer garments.
Despite the world-wide introduction of the so-called fixing process in which interlinings having a coating of hot-melt adhesive are bonded to materials of outer garments by ironing, so-called sewn-in patches are frequently used even today for the shoulder area of the front part of outer garments. That is, in addition to the ironed-in interlinings for fixing whole parts, which in contrast to the sewn-in patches, are applied to the whole area of the front parts of garments. The sewn-in patches are usually linen or plain weave fabrics consisting of a fine cotton warp and elastic weft threads, having a coarse titre. Woven knitted fabrics consisting of a stitch or loop forming fine denier synthetic warp and an elastic non-knitting coarse weft yarn are also used occasionally for the same purpose. The sewn patches are incorporated by sewn-in. A further additional method of stiffening the front and shoulder area consists of ironing in so-called fixed patches which are coated with heat-sealing adhesive and which, in yarn and fibre structure, correspond approximately to a whole-part interlining of finer denier which can be ironed in. Such additional ironed in fixed patches are incapable of producing the high degree of shape holding, the luxurious smooth feel and elasticity like a sewn-in patch since the double binding by ironing creates a, stiff, certain boardy, feel.
However, the sewn patch, which is incorporated in the conventional manner by sewing in and which has remained essentially without any marked change for decades, leaves much to be desired and is no longer able to meet today's higher demands for comfort. On account of their high degree of elasticity, the sewn-in patches also have a hard, wiry and often strawy character and, moreover, they are incapable of compensating for certain unavoidable disharmonies between the build or physique of the person wearing the article of clothing and the cut of the article of clothing itself so that, despite this, the wearer feels comfortable. In this case the clothier then often assists by incorporating even more bulky soft materials as padding.
In order to avoid these materials at least to some extent, other patch products have also recently come on to the market, these products consisting of double weave fabrics or woven knitted fabrics having two layers of weft threads one above the other, an elastic lower layer of weft thread and a soft raised upper layer of weft thread. Since in this case the elasticity is only produced through the weft yarn, and not also by incorporating elasticity-producing finishing agents, high pickages are necessary thereby making these two-layered articles relatively costly. The high pickages are also necessary in order to obtain adequate surface stabilization, for example in the oblique draft. Another particular disadvantage of the double weft layered woven fabrics is their high degree of warp shrinkage which cannot be eliminated by conventional finishing methods. Also, the weaving capacity is sharply reduced in the case of double fabrics and woven knotted fabrics having double layers of weft, thereby making articles even more costly.